Hell Is Other Diners

Go back to Hogwarts.
Go back to Hogwarts. Photo: REX

“Off the record, one starred chef told me that he dreaded its annual publication not because he might lose his status but because for the next month the booking would be full of customers with faces like smacked bottoms who complained about everything […] Michelin has produced a legion of miserable gourmands, people who care more about the valet parking than conviviality — which I suppose was rather the point in the first place.” — English critic A.A. Gill is seeing a lot of Michelin stars, but says it’s no longer possible to enjoy the view. He also calls the guidebook’s review of Brooklyn Fare “a handjob.” [VF, Earlier]