He was too busy writing this piece about wine forgeries to be going out on review meals last week, so Examiner critic Jesse Hirsch pens a review of Square Meals, the takeout spot recently opened at 2127 Polk Street that also provides free delivery anywhere in the city of almost pre-prepared dinners you can heat up/sautée yourself. He’s a fan of their mainstay turkey meatloaf, which contains a “secret” moistening mixture of cottage cheese and panko. As well as their skin-on chicken breast, St. Louis-style ribs, and King salmon, which came half-cooked and with a topping on the side of cipolline-allspice creme fraiche. All told, “The food veered so near to my own home-cooked dinners that it embarrassed me to have someone else make it.” As for the “farmers’ market salad,” it was just a sad little thing with some bell peppers and “a few papery cucumber slices,” so you can skip that. [Examiner]
