• Brian Freedman writes that high prices on the mediocre wines at Urban Enoteca “violates the basic, tacit agreement that wine bars almost always have with their guests.” They’re supposed to provide opportunities to “experience grapes and regions and styles that you otherwise may not have,” but the “uninspired” list at the Latham Hotel’s newly reopened space has all the appeal of “making out with a dead fish.” The equally uninspiring menu failed to “come through in a way the depressing wine program hadn’t.” [PW]
• Adam Erace finds moods fouling foods at “Castagne’s casual little bro” Spiga, where “limp, sad” polenta fries have “the color of wax and the constitution of Twizzlers.” A white bean, truffle and rosemary-laden crostini “tasted like a truffled cleaning product.” Pizzas were a “passive-aggressive flop,” and the cotechino served over lentils and topped with a fried egg was “rather revolting.” [Citypaper]
• At Jane G’s, Phyllis Stein-Novack and sister Sandy settle in with a “a fine grassy” Sauvignon Blanc, and some raw clams that were “a tad smaller” than cherrystones that “would have been better if they were served on crushed ice.” Phyllis couldn’t “detect any true duck flavor” in the duck taro spring rolls. The garlic noodle heaven shrimp was also disappointing, was served “lukewarm, and “imparted a strong iodine flavor.” And in the end, she was “charged $10 for a $9 glass of wine and $17 for a $15 shrimp dish.” [South Philly Review]
