In the Weekly today we have Anna Roth’s review of Pläj, the new Scandinavian restaurant from Swedish chef Roberth Sundell inside the Inn at the Opera (333 Fulton Street). The name is a phonetic spelling of “play,” and Sundell wants to play with a fusion of Nordic ingredients and California cuisine. Roth finds some of the attempts at fusion to be a little forced, like a coriander-chile “ceviche” of herring that she says is too fishy, and there are a few more wintry Scandinavian dishes like an ox cheek entrée that don’t feel seasonally appropriate. She does, however, love a few traditional items, like the Swedish meatballs and gravlax, as well as the desserts, and suggests Sundell just focus on the Scandinavian stuff, since we have hardly any of it in S.F. right now as it is. [SF Weekly]
Chef Roberth Sundell, who came here via L.A. and Tahoe. Photo: Courtesy of Plaj.