Jonathan Gold on Steaks and The Vegan Equivalent

Coulotte Photo: Allison Blair2 via Flickr

“It is a modern man’s way of asserting that he is solvent, American and employed, in touch with, though not overwhelmed by, his baser pleasures. (I’m not sure what the vegan equivalent to this may be, although I like to think it includes swaggering into a joint where even the dish soap is cruelty free, then demanding the biggest kohlrabi in the house.)— Jonathan Gold, in a look at the coulotte at Taylor’s Steakhouse. [L.A. Times]