The Other Critics

Anna Roth Files Her First Review for the Weekly, and It’s of Gajalee

Photo: Grub Street

It’s her third week in San Francisco, but only her first printed review, and newly installed critic Anna Roth brings us her thoughts on the little Mission coastal-Indian spot Gajalee (525 Valencia). She says most Western diners are likely going to be surprised by the differences in flavors of the dishes that Gajalee specializes in, from the regions of Kerala, Karnataka, and Goa, and that their curries’ “complexities are a revelation.” First off she loves the fish malvani masala and the 28-spice blend of the shrimp thali, as well as the South Indian-style deep-fried chicken. Also, she’s a fan of this crazy-sounding savory-salty drink called sol kadi, which is “a kokum, coconut, and green chile drink whose pastel pink color disguises a flavor so strong that our waiter warned us against ordering it as first-timers.” And much like Unterman before her, she laments, “The biggest downer at Gajalee is the service.” [SF Weekly, Unterman’s earlier take]

Anna Roth Files Her First Review for the Weekly, and It’s of Gajalee