It was about as far as you could get from the overcrowded excess of the annual Dark Lord Day at Three Floyds in Munster, Indiana: a candlelit dinner for ten at Publican Quality Meats last night. Okay, there was this resemblance: heavy metal blasting on the sound system from Three Floyds’ Lincoln Anderson’s phone. But this was a rare chance not only to have Dark Lord at all, but to sample a five-year vertical of it, plus an assortment of other Three Floyds rarities. The beers were donated by collectors for the dinner as a fundraiser for Inspiration Cafe, and to live up to the libations on hand, chefs from all of Paul Kahan’s restaurants rose (or sank) to the challenge with dishes that gave them the chance to indulge in Mephistophelean excess far beyond the usual fairly-down-to-earth food they usually make, from wagyu beef to black truffle to gold leaf. Yet if they seemed to relish the chance to go wild— at one point, for reasons we no longer recall, Blackbird pastry chef Dana Cree gold-leafed Publican Quality Meats chef Cosmo Goss’ tongue— the food they produced wasn’t stupidly excessive, which is easy, but ingeniously, disciplinedly excessive— truly a feast fit for a Dark Lord. We were in the subterranean depths of Publican Quality Meats for it all; check out our beneath-the-scenes slideshow.