Besha Rodell Tickled by Industriel

I always feel like, somebody's watching me
I always feel like, somebody's watching me Photo: Industriel

Fair and balanced Besha Rodell gets to that goat sandwich we’ve been dying to try at Downtown’s new Industriel, sharing our quizzical confusion at the portraits of Dustbowl-era farmers at the gate and offering that, “some close up pics of migrant workers might be a touch more relevant.” She can’t quite tell if the restaurant is entriely serious or not, its rustic-modern schizophrenia taking “the entire concept of farm cooking and industrial chic to an extreme so outlandish, it comes across as a parody of itself.”

Noting the extreme cuts of offal and game, she is disappointed by a three-dollar sardine described as “weird and mushy,” and isn’t too crazy about that goat sandwich, “obscured by it accompaniments more than it was enhanced.” All said, she sees some potential here, declaring it “tawdry fun,” while holding out hope that the “the food rather than the concept will prove to be the most interesting thing about this restaurant.” [LAW]