Remember this pasta taste test, where an underdog called Trader Joe’s trumped all? In case anything has changed, Bon App asks Del Posto’s 100-layer-lasagna demigod, chef Mark Ladner, to narrow in on a bunch of grocery store brands like Ronzoni and Buitoni, and analyze what’s what. He does a lot of sniffing for wheat, uses the word “codify,” and ultimately crowns Barilla dried fettuccine a winner. Note: Ix-nay on the fake ortellini-tey. [Bon Appétit]