To mark California’s foiehibition, which goes into effect July 1, all the Grub Street cities are celebrating the best and most creative uses of the lusciously forbidden offal by chefs in their area. But hey, California, if you’re going to look to one of them, look to us in Chicago. Because we’ve been there. And we can tell you the pain you’re putting yourself through.
Here’s why: First, because it’s a rube move, that blows a big hole right in the middle of your ascendant, French Laundered-culinary scene big enough for Europeans to snicker through. Second, because you may think it’s only going to affect snobs and makes for good populist demagoguery, but remember that the only place in Chicago that actually got busted for serving foie was a hot dog stand. And third, because while making foie gras may or may not be all that humane, you’re kidding yourself if you think the industrial chicken, pork or beef you eat is any kinder. A ban like this isn’t about improving things for animals, it’s about the satisfaction that the Cali-ban among you get when they deny somebody else pleasure. And if Goddess wanted California to be against pleasure, she’d have made it North Dakota.
So check out what we’ve been doing with foie gras since we came to our senses and overturned our own ban in 2008. Our slideshow of great foie gras dishes, compiled with the considerable aid of our man Roger Kamholz, starts below. And see also our colleagues’ slideshows for New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Philadelphia and Boston.