Things Fall Apart: Gambuto on Cook’s County’s Burger

Cook's County's Burger
Cook's County's Burger Photo: Tony Chen via SinoSoul

We’ve heard mostly raves about Cook’s County, West Hollywood’s new locavore restaurant from Ammo/Campanile vets Daniel Mattern and pastry chef Roxana Jullapat. Today, A Hamburger Today checks in on the duo’s burger and though critic Damon Gambuto is quick to call this a “quality restaurant,” he has some beef with its burger. “When it comes to contriving the alchemy of meat, bun, and cheese,” he reflects, “they aren’t able to tease out a great burger from (mostly) great components,” citing a bun that lacks “sponginess” and a “towering” structure that defies practicality when the thing all falls apart, forcing the reluctant burger fanatic to grab for a knife and fork just to finish it. [AHT]