Tejal Rao Debuts With Perla; Ryan Sutton Anoints Torrisi ‘New York Heaven’

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San Matteo Panuozzo. Photo: Danny Kim/New York Magazine

On Monday, New York's Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite gave two stars each to two downtown sandwich spinoffs San Matteo Panuozzo and Taboonette. What did the city's crop of professional eaters think about restaurants this week? Let's take a look.

For her review debut at the Village Voice, Tejal Rao gives us the full experience at Perla
shrimp heads that taste like a campfire that burns by the sea, a friendly waitress that chants do it, do it when a last bite of foie gras and pistachio butter sits on the plate, the Dirty Dancing soundtrack playing overhead. One thing shes not interested in doing chronicling her night via Twitpic.

Robert Sietsema samples three types of sausages during opening weekend for Vandaags weenie window. The only dog hes barking about is the bunless Double Dutch a Braty boudin blanc and a dissolving blood sausage.

Pete Wells cant get enough of the charcutier and saucier expertise at La Silhouette in Hells Kitchen. He awards the year-old eatery one star (and a gold star for politeness).

Ryan Sutton says Torrisi Italian Specialties has shed its clumsy chicken parm sammies and lunch and lines out the door. Now he dubs its $150 tasting menu (a $100 upcharge and a months wait) New York heaven, awarding the little restaurant three and a half stars (between first class of its kind and the ultimate Bloomberg Valhalla, incomparable food, service, ambience).

Jay Cheshes relishes the "luxurious setting, flawless service, and preponderance of foie gras and truffles" at the NoMad, "an old-fashioned restaurant thats also exciting and new." A poached egg starter is "over-the-top," and duck breast carries the "he exotic perfume of Vadouvan curry." Basically, "the food will haunt you" Cheshes writes in his five-star review.

For Steve Cuozzo, the fussy American fare at Vitae makes it the best American-Nouveau lunch spot in midtown even if it is because its one of the only modern American restaurants for blocks, and its nearby competitor is a Build-a-Bear.

Research and The New Yorker suggests youll like French wine bar Thirstbaràvin because youll have to work to get there. Once you reach the cozy spot in unfortunate location Crown Heights, theres no wait.