Alice Waters Seduces Everyone With Her Eggs

The egg master.
The egg master. Photo: Getty

Lest anyone suggest that Alice Waters doesn’t know her way around a kitchen, we present Exhibit A, from the Lives column in today’s Times, in which writer Daniel Duane recounts the story of a private meeting he had with Alice in her kitchen in which she made her famous capital-E Egg for him in the fireplace in her kitchen — something which she’d previously done for Lesley Stahl on 60 Minutes, so now it’s kind of like a favorite party trick. The Egg involves first building a fire, then making a salad with garden-fresh greens and slicing some artisanal bread, cracking open a bottle of Bandol rosé, then rubbing a large copper spoon with oil, cracking a local egg into it, and frying it over the open flame. “We’ve got only so many moves, each and every one of us,” Duane writes, in Alice’s defense, “and it was still a great egg.” [NYT]