Posts for May 27, 2012

Hakkasan Is Ruby Foo’s for Rich People

I’ve heard all sorts of tart, snarky (and, in hindsight, deadly accurate) comments from my dining companions as we’ve sat down to eat over the years. But none in recent memory has been quite as pointed, or foreboding, as the one uttered by one of my wiseguy guests as we made our way down the tunnel-like entrance of the new Times Square branch of the famous London Chinese restaurant Hakkasan. The walls and ceiling of the long, dark passageway were covered with white polished Carrara marble and decorated here and there with guttering candles set in little red jars. There was a thick, vaguely unsettling smell of incense in the air, and several of the hostesses, who were smiling hopefully by the restaurant’s entrance at the far end of the tunnel, were dressed all in black. The coat-check girl was dressed in black, too, and as we dropped our coats on the marble counter, my friend smiled a thin smile. “I feel,” he said, “like I’m visiting Grandma Ethel’s ashes at the crematorium.”

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Iced Coffee-A-Go-Go: Cold Brews Get the Growler Treatment

Iced in a cup, sure, but also in a bottle, jug, or growler. A survey of summer’s most transportable and highly caffeinated cold brews (not just Folgers stuck in the fridge, but grounds steeped in room-temperature water for 12 to 24 hours, producing a smooth, low-acid concentrate).

This story appeared in the June 4, 2012 issue of New York Magazine.

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