Somewhere around the time the cooks from Mexique were doing shots from the spout in an ice sculpture pig, the incongruity between the poshness of The Four Seasons and the raucous lovefest for pork and other associated things like beer and rye called Cochon 555 hit us. But then we remembered all the porky goodness that Allium chef Kevin Hickey had served the night before at a dinner for the purveyors, and it seemed the right setting after all. Five chefs dished up hundreds of portions of imaginative food made in a competition which required them to use an entire heritage pig, and then just when their food was starting to run out, Hickey and his staff rolled out the gleaming stainless serving carts and started to dish up their own take on working class pork— barbecue on a biscuit, carnitas on a taco and the like. We were there to judge (and were duly impressed by the cleverness and skill displayed by all the chefs), while our man Huge Galdones was on the scene with camera. Check out his slideshow of memorably porky moments below.