Gold Eats Holy Moles at Rocio’s Moles del Dioses

Carne de chango at Rocio's Moles del Dioses
Carne de chango at Rocio's Moles del Dioses Photo: Tatiana Arbogast

Though we spied the scribe at the Bell location of Rocio’s Moles del Dioses recently, Jonathan Gold drops his latest piece of Counter Intelligence on Rocio Camacho’s newer Sun Valley restaurant and notices that “there is cactus on the plate almost everywhere it is possible for cactus to be,” which includes inside the aguas and tortilla chips. Calling Camacho the “Johnny Appleseed of the metate,” Gold reminds us that she “makes a greater variety of moles than anyone else,” including legendarily creative takes with pistachio, tequila, and coffee, among the options. While recommending that one veers from the mole enough to try “delicious” carne de chango (no te preocupes, it’s pork), huitlacoche empanadas, and cream of grasshopper soup, he warns against a “dryish” cochinita pibil and “workmanlike” lamb mixiote, insisting “Camacho has yet to work through her fancy-Mexican-restaurant phase.” Regardless, trust us, you’re going to want to eat here now.

Counter Intelligence: At Rocio’s in Sun Valley, moles reign [LAT]