Posts for April 16, 2012

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf Opening on UES; 7-Eleven Planning 100-Plus NYC Stores

7-Eleven plans to open 114 new Manhattan stores over the next five years, much to the chagrin of bodega owners. [Daily Intel]

Condé Nast Traveler just released its 2012 Hot List, which includes New York restuarants Tertulia, Fatty ‘Cue, the Dutch and Isa. [Grub Street]

Perilla is turning five next month and to celebrate, chef Harold Dieterle will create a exclusive four-course meal featuring artisanal meats from Iowa’s famed La Quercia. Call for reservations. [Grub Street]

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Tanuki Tavern Might Turn Into Another Meatpack-aurant

Party your tanuki off, while you still can.

Insiders are whispering that Jeffrey Chodorow is contemplating closing Japanese izakaya Tanuki Tavern in the Gansevoort hotel, and flipping the space into a new venture overseen by the ex-MPD boys, Daniel and Derek Koch, which sounds like replacing a headache with a toothache (plus alotta Percocet) but, hey. Chodorow didn't confirm or deny the news. [Eater NY]

Acme’s Owner Knows Everything Has an Expiration Date

"But if I really knew the secret to longevity? I’d put it in a bottle and sell it." —Jean-Marc Houmard on his 26 years in the restaurant business, and keeping Acme current. [Zagat]

Food Network Launching OpenTable Competitor in Philly

Arrgghh… no tables available until 9:45!?!?!Photo: iStockphoto

If the Food Network gets its way, it soon could give online reservation juggernaut OpenTable a run for its money. In efforts to combat dwindling viewership on all its lifestyle networks, parent company Scripps Network Interactive Inc. has given rise to CityEats, a restaurant-reservation service similar to de facto industry standard OpenTable. It’s now up and running in Philadelphia and Washington D.C. with more than 130 restaurants onboard, according to the Wall Street Journal. While that’s a tiny drop in the bucket compared to the 17,000 restaurants that OpenTable’s amassed since first launching in 1998, Scripps is planning an aggressive strategy to muscle into the online-reservation market.

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An Update on Gabrielle Hamilton’s Latest Affairs

How she's slightly de-Pruning.

Just because she always says cool stuff ("I'm in that sweet spot where I could die and I'm still good"), and does edgy things ("We are divorcing, we've filed the paperwork, and the lawyers are doing what they do"), it's never too burdensome reading up on the latest goings-on of Gabrielle Hamilton. [Paper]

America Finally Getting Bored With Chicken Breast, Loading Up on Dark Meat Instead

Drumsticks: all the rage.

Time to find more thighs! There's been a run on dark meat at the nation's grocery stores lately, and America's poultry producers are still playing catch-up with the trend, the Wall Street Journal reports today. Apparently, people have been taking their cues from Food Network chefs who've been regularly eschewing boring breast meat for more flavorful legs and thighs, driving up the price of boneless thighs to be in line with breasts for the first time, averaging about $1.30 per pound, after costing about half as much just a few years ago.

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Slamming Poems and Sipping Drinks

In honor of the age-old kinship between hard drinking and great poetry, Back Forty and the Academy of American Poets are teaming up to celebrate both. At their April 21 event, Poetry & Cocktails (tickets here), mixologists from the likes of the Beagle and Clover Club will present quaffs inspired by their favorite poems, to be read by downtown poet Bob Holman. The Beagle's selection involves a poem by Christopher Michel where the protagonist-author gets loaded and "pour[s] gin into Hector the dog's water bowl," among other antics. See the recipe here and an excerpt from the poem below.

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Chez Moi Opens on Atlantic Avenue, Next to Pals at Colonie

Promising pedigree at Chez Moi.

Patricia Ageheim and Tarek Debira, along with Chef Dustin Taylor (Daniel, Alain Ducasse), have launched Chez Moi, a sunny little French bistro, in the old La Mancha space on Atlantic Avenue, just a few steps away from Colonie. Ageheim — whose professional background includes the Standard Grill and Indochine — tells Grub Street that Colonie played a large part in the desirability of the location, as the owners and their children are all close friends. As of now, Chez Moi serves dinner only, but lunch should follow in the next week.

Dinner Menu [PDF]

Chez Moi, 135 Atlantic Ave., Brooklyn Heights, 347-227-8337

Trimming the Fat: In Defense of Dumping Food-Averse Friends

Do not get stuck eating with these people.Photo: iStockphoto

To paraphrase something food artist Jennifer Rubell once said, we all have a finite number of meals left on this Earth, so we'd better make them count. Why, then, do people happily pay oodles of money to eat at middling (and sometimes downright vile) restaurants? It's their prerogative, of course, but the problem is these misguided souls will occasionally foist their bad taste on people who actually enjoy food, and put us in situations that require we waste one of those precious finite meals. This is unacceptable, and for the most part, it is okay to completely disassociate with these people forever.

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Marc Forgione Says New Steakhouse Pays Homage to His ‘Old Man’

Marc Forgione shows off American Cut's Tomahawk chops.

When he opens American Cut later this week at Atlantic City's new Revel resort and casino, Marc Forgione will have a two-pronged mission: Putting forth a classic steakhouse experience, and paying homage to the Iron Chef’s “old man,” the veritable Godfather of American Cuisine, Larry Forgione. “I’m bringing the steakhouse back to the old school,” Forgione tells Grub Street. “Not many people realize it, but the steakhouse is an American concept, and my old man was this huge advocate of American cuisine, so I’m also paying some respect to him.”

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Where to Find Eggs, Extra Well-done

Whether you're a full-blown egghead or just an interested eater, you can't ignore the wealth of egg-centric dishes being served around town these days, from the "Chicken and Eggs" at Acme to the "Pampangan-style sizzling sisig with egg, a snout to tail Filipino classic" at Maharlika Filipino Moderno. Restaurant Girl does the l'egg work. [Restaurant Girl]

What to Eat at Boukiés, Bringing Greek Small Plates and Taverna Fare to the East Village

Following the heartbreaking closing of Heartbreak the very week it received a Michelin star, a rather primo piece of East Village corner real estate was freed up. Today Christos Valtzoglos, the owner of nearby Pylos, opens Boukiés, a restaurant dedicated to Greek small plates and taverna-style grub. Chef Diane Kochilas, a celebrated cookbook author and Greek food expert, consulted on the menu, which roves from typical meze (hummus, taramosalata) to shrimp saganaki to Pitarakia, the small savory pies filled with ingredients like mushrooms, fennel, leeks, and dill. See for yourself below and in our slideshow.

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Now Bouley Is in a Sue-Vide Situation

Bouley fights back.

Last week, we heard Daniel Boulud was suing some DBGB poser upstate, and now Brushstroke and Test Kitchen's David Bouley is suing a pesky neighbor — who's been on Bouley's back with a number of unsavory accusations, like abusing illegal workers and 9/11 fraud — for $600,000, stating the nosey nabe had caused the Bouley "financial harm." [NYDN]

Earlier: Bouley Tweaks Brushroke, Adds Sushi Bar and Master

Ruth Reichl Once Called Thomas Keller ‘Really Depressed’

When life wasn't a walk in the garden.Photo: Andrew Barris

Reichl recalls over twenty years of Thomas Keller, starting with his frustrating, "really depressed" sounding existence at Rakel and Checkers, to his first days at the French Laundry, where he aspired, perhaps too grandiosely, too god-complex-y, to control the entire essence of coming to Yountville, telling a reporter in 1992, "I want to control the entire experience, not just from the minute you walk into the restaurant but from the minute you get to Yountville ... " Today, the equally committed, but perhaps more understated Keller is zoned in on his burgeoning gluten-free creations, focused on taking care of guests with all allergies — even though he doesn't remember anyone having allergies back in the day. (Right!?) Well, as he once told Grub, "I learned a long time ago that I'm a nurturer." [Gilt Taste]

What to Eat at Pok Pok Ny, Opening Wednesday

It's been touch and go, but the latest word is that Andy Ricker's full sit-down northern Thai restaurant, Pok Pok Ny, will open Wednesday. We've gotten a look at the menu, and this place seems poised to rock the city's Thai-food scene, with specialties not found elsewhere in the five boroughs. There's a pork-bone soup with smoked frog legs; the herbal salad yam samun phrai, teeming with unusual things like sawtooth, parsnip, and white turmeric — not to mention cashews and dried shrimp; plus a khao soi (an egg-noodle dish in a curry broth) that, at least at the original Portland location, is a dead ringer for the stuff you'd slurp in Chiang Mai.

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Adam Platt on Neta; Is Artisanal Brooklyn Food a Sign of the Apocalypse?

In this week's New York, Adam Platt examines the sushi at Neta, which may just be the "new home" of the sushi establishment. Although the dining room at times resembles a "'corporate test kitchen' in the suburbs of New Jersey," the menu from Masa proteges Nik Kim and Jimmy Lau offers a "more casual, Zen-like alternative to the old mother ship uptown": Most sushi is sourced locally, and an entire roll section is devoted vegetables. Our critic enjoys "a simple serving of trumpet mushrooms, which the chefs sauté in round slices, then stack between thatches of thinly crisped potatoes spiced with serrano peppers"; four kinds of bluefin tuna; and mackerel, "which the chefs gently lacquer with soy or ice-cool dabs of uni flown in to the restaurant daily." The restaurant receives two stars.

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Smith Street’s Bedraggled Fall Cafe Is Now Called Ciro’s

Slightly less of a mess than its nebbish predecessor, Ciro’s has opened in the former Fall Cafe space, where broke Brooklyn writers and artsy depressives always have, and probably always will, commiserate over eh earthy-crunchy snacks and an impressively dazed n' confused staff. See ya there. [Lost City]

Those Empanadas Are Made of People

Good luck ever enjoying these again.

Gives a new meaning to "mystery meat": A Brazilian couple has been accused of luring women into their home via an ad for a nanny, then killing them and using their bodies to fill empanadas. The couple, plus the man's mistress (all three of whom are obsessed with "the purification of the world and the reduction of its population"), then sold these people-stuffed pastries to hapless, unsuspecting neighbors, meaning a bunch of Brazilians are now inadvertent cannibals. Ponder that over your morning coffee. [HuffPo]

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