Virbila Dubs Papilles The Leader of L.A.’s Bistronomics Pack

Papilles' Tahitian squash veloute
Papilles' Tahitian squash veloute Photo: Tatiana Arbogast

Hey Papilles, S. Irene Virbila likes you, even if she thinks owner Santos Uy may “have rocks in [his] head” for naming it that (she thinks we’re all too stupid to pronounce it). The critic feels “the cooking is polished and sophisticated, unexpected at this price range,” even if “this is not the place for aficionados of the late l’Orangerie or Ortolan.” The consistency of the wine program doesn’t completely float her boat, but the hangar steak is “worth a drive across town” and chef Tim Carey “is well-schooled in French cuisine with soul.” She concludes, “With so many French restaurants closing of late, Papilles leads the new crop.” Meanwhile our critically-light town goes a second week without a new Jonathan Gold review. Eh, think of it as getting some time to catch up. [LAT]