Mr. Bauer begins his update review about Grand Café (501 Geary) by musing, “Through its roller-coaster 17-year history, the food at Grand Cafe has soared and plummeted as dramatically as a thrill ride at Great America.” That is dramatic! He describes the food by newly installed chef Alicia Jenish as “straightforward” but “better than many meals in the past.” He enjoys several of her “bountiful and rustic” main courses, including the roast chicken breast with coq au vin-braised thigh; and the grilled rainbow trout that we asked Jenish about in our earlier interview. He concludes that the place now “shows glimmers of being a long-running hit.” Verdict: two and a half stars. [Chron]