Beer and Bread Porridge
9 Great Jones St., nr. Lafayette St.; 212-203-2121
The just-reopened Acme has somewhat famously done away completely with the original's Cajun-tinged menu in favor of new Nordic cuisine from chef Mads Refslund, who made his name at Noma in Copenhagen. Perhaps the surprising thing is that the best dessert — Adam Platt says "it's sick" — on Refslund's menu isn't some high-concept, foraged bit of whimsy; it's his take on Øllebrød, a classic Danish mixture of sweetened beer and bread that's like some perfect Norse version of oatmeal.