The Other Critics

Wells Praises Parm; Cuozzo Finds Gwynnet St. ‘Cozy’

“Tables for Two” is unimpressed with David Burke Kitchen, where “there are some missteps among the entrées.” While “a succulent slab of rib eye provides a welcome nod to simplicity,” guests should “stay away from the salmon pastrami, leathery strips of fish wrapped around slightly soggy pretzel sticks.” Your best bet? “Order the lobster soup: dumplings served in a pungent, beet-red vegetable broth, steamed before your eyes in a glass contraption resembling a coffeepot.” [NYer]

At Allswell in Williamsburg, Jay Cheshes enjoys the Merry Well, “a wintry mix of Averna, Allspice Dram, dry vermouth and rye served chilled in a snifter.” While in the area, Cheshes also stops by Lighthouse, where “the less exotic fare is the real draw here, the stuff you’ll eat on the regular if you live in the area.” He suggests the “crisp and juicy” half-chicken, roasted in a cast-iron pan, or the “tender pink” lamb chops with garlic aïoli and salsa verde. [TONY]

Steve Cuozzo calls modern American bistro Gwynnett St. “cozy,” and thinks it “lives up to its Kings County ideal of sourcing the finest local and sustainable ingredients possible and doing interesting things with them.” His favorites include whiskey bread served with cultured butter, and housemade pecan tofu, and the slow-poached egg appetizer, which, he writes, is “alone worth a ride on the L train (one block away) or even the BQE.” [NYP]

Julia Moskin visits Calyer, where skeptics of its eccentric menu descriptions of Spanish and Portuguese wines might think “they’ve stumbled onto the set of Portlandia: East.” Moskin suggests that Calyer’s cuisine is more Latin-lite than its traditional Latin American claim, though she finds both the tender scallop ceviche and the chicharrones (preserved in pork fat before being air-dried, then deep-fried) are delicious options for their inexpensive prices points. [NYT]

Steven Stern stops by the Shanty in Williamsburg, where “the barkeeps do good things simply.” “And the product? Oh, it’s very, very good.” His drinks of choice were the Mrs. Parker and the Tot & Tonic, which he claims is “probably the most complex two-ingredient drink in town.” [NYT]

Pete Wells describes his experience at Parm as “completely faithful to your memories while being much, much better than you remembered.” In addition to any of Parm’s meatball dishes, Wells also suggests the fried calamari, pizza, or clams as other options. He has no harsh words for the Italian-American eatery and gives it two stars. [NYT]

Robert Sietsema enjoys the Uzbek-Korean-Russian fusion at Elza Fancy Foods in Brighton Beach, where, of the Korean-inspired dishes, he says “the spice level has been downgraded and the dishes diddled with,” but where “most Russian and Uzbeki standards are delivered more or less intact.” He loves the Kuksu, or “noodle soup,” mash hurdy, and plov, “an oily, cumin-flavored, carrot-shot lamb pilaf.” [VV]

Lauren Shockey is underwhelmed by the salads at Sottocasa, adding, “let’s get real, though. Salad at pizza places is like diet soda. What’s the point?” Instead, she suggests the Radicchio, “a study of spicy bitterness, piled high with crumbled hot sausage and lots of red chicory,” and the Quattro Stagioni, a “highly respectable, playing host to olives, sliced ‘shrooms, ham, and artichokes: something for each of the four seasons.” [VV]

Wells Praises Parm; Cuozzo Finds Gwynnet St. ‘Cozy’