Here’s Pete Wells’s First Review As the Times’ New Full-Time Critic

BBQ Chicken at Wong.
BBQ Chicken at Wong. Photo: Michael Allin/New York Magazine

While our own critic recovers from the Herculean task of ranking the city’s 100-plus best restaurants, Pete Wells drops his first review as the Times’ newest full-time critic. So which spot does he deem worthy of the debut? Wong, Simpson Wong’s “Asian locavore” spot on Cornelia Street. And he likes it, especially the duck-fat ice cream. [NYT, Related]