Bill of Fare: Pete Wells Goes on His Own Personal Duck Hunt

Donald is not pleased.
Donald is not pleased. Photo: Disney

Over at Diner’s Journal, new Times critic Pete Wells looks at the all-duck tasting menu at Wong, the restaurant he reviewed this week, to see how it stacks up against Momofuku’s lunchtime duckstravaganza in the old Milk Bar space. The fight lasts seven rounds, pitting bun against bun, bao against dumplings. It’s a great read, with Wells picking his dinner plate apart like a sportscaster. “We need Howard Cosell to announce this decision,” he tells us toward the end. (Spoiler: The battle is a draw.) [Diner’s Journal/NYT, Related]