Night + Market owner Kris Yenbamroong is getting out the word on what he calls “my favorite menu to date!” For DineLA’s upcoming Restaurant Weeks, the chef writes that he originally planned an “All Black Everything” theme that “quickly fell apart.” Fortunately, once the chef’s chicken went black, it failed to go back. Yenbamroong currently has a three-course menu planned with two uses of nam prik, servings of pigs trotters and tails in a Chiengrai-style pork stew simmered with pickled garlic and palm sugar, and an option for dancing prawns. But the owner is most stoked to feature a black-boned chicken curry, something he claims his grandmother made for him when he was ill.
With a long history of a few thousand years and a couple of romantic legends involving angry gods, immortality, and misty mountaintops, black-boned chickens are disputedly Chinese or Southeast Asian in origin, a name ascribed to the shaggy-plumaged Silkie chickens that have purple-ish bodies and bones when butchered.
In an email, Yenbamroong continues detailing his grandma’s preparation. “She would boil the chicken into submission and then toss it, leaving me with a big bowl of super-concentrated chicken broth.”
As to the inherent powers of the immortal, pill-popping chickens, he says, “If you’ve never eaten black-boned chicken, here’s what it is: a tiny but super lean animal that you feel has exercised every morning of its life. It is the Manny Pacquiao of chickens and it is perfect for curry.”
Night + Market’s full Restaurant Weeks menu is below, pig tails, black-boned chickens, dancing prawns, and all. Reservations can be obtained at 310-275-9724.
dineLA Restaurant Week
January 22 - February 3
nam prik hed | chiengrai mushroom relish
pork rinds / veggies / egg
nam prik ta daeng | red eye relish
beef jerky / veggies / egg
goong ten | dancing prawns
head on / chile jam / lime juice / shallots
pla duk lui suan | catfish in the garden
lemongrass / kaffir lime / fish sauce / chile / toasted rice
yum makeua yao | grilled eggplant salad
salted egg / boiled shrimp / shallots / lime juice / bird eye
kiew wan gai dam | black-boned chicken curry
black-boned chicken / mortar-pounded green curry paste / pickled rhizomes
hanglay hang moo teen moo | tails & trotters chiengrai stew
braised pig tails & trotters / palm sugar / pickled garlic / ginger