Don’t Expect Any Modernist Cooking at North End Grill

Curry Leaves, not Nitro Mud Pies!
Curry Leaves, not Nitro Mud Pies! Photo: Mychal Watts/WireImage

Floyd Cardoz, the chef at North End Grill, which opens this month, opines in Forbes India that he just doesn’t understand why so many chefs focus on manipulating ingredients into powders, gels, and frozen desserts.

In London, Cardoz was once served a liquid nitrogen frozen mud pie, he says, that did nothing but burn his tongue. Totally not cool! (In one sense, anyway.) Elsewhere, a fellow chef asks him how he might “dehydrate curry leaves and then rehydrate them to get their essence?” Cardoz’s response: “Why don’t you just use curry leaves?” The point is, he says, knowing a good amount of the underlying science is crucial to understanding cooking, but that “over the past few years cooking has gone over so much to the other side that it needs to come back.” Instead, he suggests, why not just explore some new ingredients? “The cuisines of India are not tapped anywhere,” he says, suggesting a starting place.

Will Molecular Gastronomy Go Out Of Fashion? [Forbes India]
Earlier: Floyd Cardoz Will Head Up Danny Meyer’s North End Grill