Chefs Talk The Long Haul

Jean Joho, of Everest, talks to Crain's.
Jean Joho, of Everest, talks to Crain's. Photo: courtesy Crain's

Prompted by Charlie Trotter’s retirement, Crain’s has an interesting piece with video focusing on the chefs we often overlook— the ones who’ve stayed at a job, working away, for years or even decades. Partly it’s about what they’ve seen change over the years— Yoshi Katsumura, of Yoshi’s Cafe, says that when he first opened with paper tablecloths in 1982, people complained that they weren’t cloth; and Jean Joho, of Everest, says that diners are far better educated now— “You compete with every country in the world.” But it’s also about what changes for you as a chef— “For me, instead of reinventing the wheel, I take the old, rusty wheel out of the shed and polish it nice,” says John Hogan of Keefer’s. [Crain’s]