The Other Critics

Bauer Loves the Wine Program and Most of the Food at Brassica; Unterman Calls Deli Board Sandwiches ‘Boisterous’

Brassica
Brassica

For his Sunday review, Michael Bauer headed to St. Helena to check out Cindy Pawlcyn’s new replacement for Go Fish, Brassica. He says the place is “slicker” than Pawlcyn’s 28-year-old Mustards restaurant, and the small-plates-heavy menu is for the most “excellent, with a few clunkers.” He says the kitchen is especially adept at slow-kicked dishes, like the slow-braised beef, and “few places do grilled fish better.” And he says the place has “one of the most exciting and innovative beverage programs in the Bay Area” which “bridges the divide between the connoisseur and the novice” by featuring over 75 wines by the glass and a dozen wines, called the Brassica Twelve, which can be purchased in four quantities: 2 oz., 5 oz., 500 ml, and 750 ml. All told: two and a half stars. [Chron]

Brassica

Patty U. says that the Gold-N-Berg-N-Stein sandwich at the Deli Board (corned beef, pastrami, Kosher salami, Muenster cheese, house slaw, house Thousand Island on a sweet French roll) “practically ruined me for any other sandwich,” and she goes on to rave about the sandwich shop and generally swoon over owner Adam Mesnick. She writes, “Mesnick, who wears his heart on the red sleeve of his Deli Board T-shirt, lives only to give his people pleasure. He’s pure.” Also, she calls the LRB “one of the most insane sandwiches I’ve ever stuffed into my mouth,” and she compares the place to a po’boy shop called Crabby Jack’s in New Orleans where they “also play with the magic ratio of fat upon fat.” [Examiner]

Also, Make Westing (1741 Telegraph Avenue, Oakland) got the Bar Bites treatment last week, and they especially recommend the High Merrit cocktail, as well as snack items like sturgeon confit in a jar, and a “hearty” braised oxtail sandwich. [Chron]

Bauer Loves the Wine Program and Most of the Food at Brassica; Unterman Calls