The Other Critics

Forum Has A Way With Beef; Boston Brahmins Didn’t Eat Tater Tots

• Devra First visits Forum and says that the food is definitely better than what was served at “pick-up bar” Vox Populi. A raviolo “bleeds gold,” cauliflower soup is “velvety,” the kitchen “has a way with beef,” and celery sorbet is “intriguingly vegetal.” Though we’ll skip the Crimson Sky cocktail, which “tastes like a Glade PlugIns air freshener.” [Globe]

• First also follows the Red Line out to Davis Square and applauds Five Horses Tavern for supplementing its selection of 80 bottles and 36 draft beers with interesting food. On offer: ginger-scallion lo mein to tacos, to Kentucky fried Cornish game hen, and pork belly macaroni and cheese. [Globe]

• The Phoenix’s Robert Nadeau calls The Brahmin “a useful restaurant with a bad name.” He likes the tater tots (even though the original Boston Brahmins never ate the things); meatballs are a “best buy.” [Phoenix]

• MC Slim JB finds places that will cook Thanksgiving dinner for you, assuming you’re the kind of person who thinks “dining out or ordering in sounds better than wrestling with a frozen Butterball.” [Phoenix]

• Hey, remember Estragon? You should. Slim calls the paella mixta a “head-turner” and a “showstopper” that showcases the “virtues of the Valencian larder in one gorgeous, rich, generous dish.” We’re entranced by the idea of huevos rotos con txistorra, “slightly oily pan-fried potatoes are topped with two fried eggs and chunks of kicky, bright-red Basque sausage.” [Stuff]

Forum Has A Way With Beef; Boston Brahmins Didn’t Eat Tater Tots