The Other Critics

Bauer Says the Food Is Still Strong at Acquerello, If Not the Service

They're holding firm with the tablecloths.
They’re holding firm with the tablecloths. Photo: Chris Hardy/Chronicle

Mr. Bauer files an update review this week of Acquerello (1722 Sacramento Street), the 22-year-old Italian restaurant off Polk that maintains an old-school flair, impressive wine cellar, and constantly evolving menu. Bauer says the food is “more impressive and stylized” than on his last trip there, but he still recommends the mainstay parmesan budino (which he first fell in love with in 1999), and which is “like the most exquisite custard … topped with black truffle caviar.” The desserts he says were “big disappointments” and “trapped in the last decade,” and the service no longer has the four-star “personality and passion” that he remembered. So, all told, Bauer’s feeling generous, and they sound lucky to be sticking at three and a half stars. [Chron]

Bauer Says the Food Is Still Strong at Acquerello, If Not the Service