In a possible response to Jonathan Gold’s stinging criticism of its fondness for truffle oil or maybe just to hold a middle finger up to the 99%, Umami Burger is hatching a luxury burger made even more obnoxious by its name. Called the “Money is No Object” burger, the thing is priced at $100 (and Monica May thought Umami too expensive before…), and is made from dry-aged beef from a single grass-fed Wagyu cow. The patty is then crowned with Hudson Valley foie gras, carmelized onion marmalade, and reduced 1977 Croft Vintage Port. The final step finds Umami cooks shaving about a 1/4 inch of white truffles on top for the unholy mess you see up above. But what’s it all mean?
Why, in an era of class warfare and widespread joblessness, does a restaurateur bring this kind of decadent bite to a burger joint in a city brimming with aggressively casual eateries? No clue over here. We really can’t confirm whether or not this is intended as some sort of right-leaning “swallow the poor” political statement. We are, however, suspicious that this is the kind of thing that happens when your burger joint links up SBE and embraces the “luxury” prestidigitation long employed by that brand.
Really, this is kind of like the bottle service of burgers, right? Or maybe Adam Fleischman is just getting nervous that Harry Morton is stealing all his Japanese-burger sunshine.