A Case for Endurance

Photo: Danny Kim/New York Magazine

“As chefs or restaurant workers I always think we are adrenaline junkies — eminently capable as long as a deadline looms, but not trained to just keep everything moving hard on an even keel. It’s why I admire chefs like Alfred Portale of Gotham Bar and Grill and Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin: they’ve been doing the same thing in the same restaurants for years, but not in a bored, running-in-place kind of way. They manage to keep delighting and enticing their customers new and old, and to be still excited about their cuisine and their profession.” —Porsena chef-owner Sara Jenkins reflecting back on her restaurant’s first year in business. [Atlantic]