Sifton Enlightens Us on Chefs’ True Ethnicities — So Vanilla!

Rice-toned Pelaccio.

"The putatively Spanish Tertulia is owned and run by a rural Vermonter of Irish heritage, with an Israeli sommelier … Michael White, a football player out of Wisconsin, cooks Italian food as if to the marinara born, at Marea; at Morini; at Ai Fiori. And Zakary Pelaccio? He is as white as a bag of rice." —Sam Sifton, in his mostly positive — despite the DNA of its genius, albeit gingery, chef — review of Tertulia. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]