the other critics

Cuozzo Revisits Lincoln; Gael Greene Gives Crown a Break

In "$25 and Under," Dave Cook seeks out authentic Bangladeshi cooking and winds up at the "modest, sunny" Neerob in the Bronx. This is the real deal — "exceptional" bhartas, "bright" dal, and "delicious" fish entrees. The veggies are "delightful" as well; Cook recommends "anything with spinach." Of the traditional desserts made in-house, try the gulab jamun and the shandesh. [NYT]

Steve Cuozzo gives the revamped Lincoln three stars, an improvement over its previous Post ranking of one and a half stars. "Today, Lincoln is better, but much of the improvement is on the floor, where the once-awkward crew now delivers three-star service." Some of the food is exceptional: A vitello tonnato "blew us away," monkfish on the bone was "rich," and the branzino was "marvelous." "Even so, problems in the kitchen stubbornly persist" — such as "miserable" striped bass and "overdone" swordfish — "and until they’re remedied, Lincoln won’t be claiming a place in the Italian pantheon." [NYP]

Sam Sifton awards the West Village's Tertulia two stars. "The atmosphere is that of a medieval bar as interpreted by the fashion editors of New York magazine": a roaring wood fire, smoke and garlic in the air, and celebs crowded in at the tables. "Pork is the restaurant's first among equals" — Iberico ham makes an appearance in many dishes, with results that range from "marvelous" to "outrageous," in a good way. "Seafood gets a good billing as well"; "buttery" amberjack was a favorite. The chorizo criollo "is a perfect second course," and the slow-grilled turbot is "delicate" and "extremely satisfying." Service is spotty, and the joint is a scene, but "occasional discomforts aside, Tertulia is still great fun." [NYT]

"Quibbles about concept and d├ęcor aside, the fish tacos ... are quite good," Robert Sietsema determines at the nautical-themed Rosarito Fish Shack in Williamsburg. For the rest of the menu, though, "the quality of the food runs from delicious to deplorable, so you must plot your meal carefully, like a sloop tacking into a stiff nor'easter." Avoid the octopus frankfurter and the seafood burger, and go with the raw bar ("a thing of beauty") or the "magnificent" looking whole deep-fried sea bass. [VV]

Lauren Shockey visits Maharlika, a new Filipino joint in the East Village, to find that "cheery" service and "good-hearted Fil-Am charm [fill] this boldly decorated space." "Midday meals shine," in particular eggs Imelda and the "porridgey" arroz caldo. For dinner, the longga dog is "funky fun," and the humba and kare-kare are also winners. Avoid the adobo, a "gloopy" rendition of the national dish of the Philippines, and the merely "decent" fried chicken. But "save a few dollars for dessert," such as the silky coconut flan or the tropical fruit with ice cream. [VV]

"Tables for Two" checks out the "odd establishment" that is Earl's Beer & Cheese on the Upper East Side. It is "principally a bar specializing in craft beers," and service is inconsistent, trending toward "glacial." But the cheese-focused menu contains some "bizarre and brilliant inventions," not least of which is the "lipid cannonball" described as Asian gnocchi, or the "peerless" mozzarella grilled cheese. Of course, you can't miss the "white glove/white trash combo" that is the Earl's Eggo: waffle with cheese, bacon, foie gras, and some type of syrup. [NYer]

Gael Greene finds "an Almanac de Gotham’s nocturnal royalings" at the
scene-y new Crown, but, "given such distracting social tremors, the kitchen is doing quite well with its mission." The seafood salad is "delicate," the chicken is "properly moist" and "flavorful"; for dessert, the cider doughnut is "exceptional." Greene pans the "mingy" entree portions and the too-dark decor ("it's maddening not to see what I'm eating") — "but hey, eighth day and house bursting, let's give them a break." [Insatiable Critic]

Advertising

Recent News

 
NY Mag