For Spotted Pig alumnus Nate Smith, “gastropub” is more a state of mind than a culinary trend, evoking fresh and seasonal cooking; a quirky, lived-in setting; and a transporting vibe. Allswell is his very personal expression of the form — a 47-seat pub with a quilted-wallpaper effect, blue tufted banquettes, and a twelve-seat reservable "harvest table" in the chaletlike shell of one of Williamsburg’s last Polish relics. The chalkboard menu displays not only Smith’s unabashed Anglophilia (via, say, corned-beef-and-cabbage pie) but also a savvy New York eclecticism, and a nose-to-tail approach to cooking animals procured from Vermont Quality Meats. Other attractions: local beer and wine on tap and a late-night menu served until 3:30 a.m. In time, Smith plans to add brunch, breakfast, and lunch, but for now, here’s a look at a few sample dinner menus.
Allswell, 124 Bedford Ave., at N. 10th St., Williamsburg; 347-799-2743