Adam Platt on Fatty ’Cue Manhattan; the Underground Gourmet on Winter Squashes
In this week's New York, Adam Platt considers Fatty 'Cue Manhattan, a flashier rendition of the funky Brooklyn meat shack. Our critic finds that "the most inspired creations ... have a ... tangy, spicy-sweet Southeast Asian kick to them," including chile-and-ginger-infused "bacon and clams," Trippa Malaysiana "(soft strips of tripe in a smoky tomato curry)," and "a properly fiery Northern Thai duck laab." New large-plate dishes are less successful, but the ribs and brisket are just as good as they are in Williamsburg. The restaurant earns two stars.
Since we're now in the midst of full-on fall, Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite take on squash, thirteen varieties of it, to be exact, in a handy primer. Not to be single-veggie-centric, the Robs also turn their eye to fennel, which, when roasted, pairs nicely with raisins, walnuts, and parsley, as in this recipe from Daniel Holzman of the Meatball Shop. And fall is also the time for boozy apple cider, which is having a New York moment now through October 23, for Hard Cider Week.