The Underground Gourmet on Miss Lily’s; Where to Eat in Havana

The luncheonette digs at Miss Lily's.
The luncheonette digs at Miss Lily's. Photo: Danny Kim/New York Magazine

This week, the Underground Gourmet pays a visit to Miss Lily’s, Serge Becker’s (La Esquina) hip luncheonette-themed eatery, where both the service and the food are much better than expected. “The mood was festive, the old-school ska and reggae thumping at a lively but non-deafening decibel level, the multiculti, multigenerational crowd exuberantly gnawing on their spareribs,” they write of a recent Friday-night visit. Also worth eating: “golden craggy codfish fritters,” “moist and meaty jerk chicken garnished with mango chutney, a truly sensational curried goat with a mouth-tingling heat, and a rich oxtail stew with bits of sweet potato and broad beans.” The restaurant earns three stars.

If you happen to get lucky enough to find yourself in Havana, here’s a rundown on where to eat. If you’re stuck in New York, at least the obscure Lakemont Grapes are back in season; consider Del Posto pastry chef Brooks Headley’s frozen dessert version with fennel-pollen cream cheese. Another perk of being in NYC: Momofuku Milk Bar just opened its Upper West Side branch, and there’s a new pork bun in town, with or without a deep-fried egg on top.