Those Were the Days?

Escolar at Le Bernardin.
Escolar at Le Bernardin. Photo: Melissa Hom

“I can’t imagine what the average New Yorker will make of so many raw fish, and of the Bernardin style, far from the glitzily garnished and cream-haunted grandiloquence we expect in haute French cuisine. We shall see. For now, Le Bernardin struggles to keep the house sparsely booked until the crew becomes stronger.” —A line from Gael Greene’s 1986 review of Le Bernardin, the first to run after the New York location opened. Eric Ripert dug it out while his restaurant is closed for renovations. (It seems like things have worked out pretty well for the place.) [Insatiable Critic via Eric Ripert/Facebook]