Like a sexy, scruffy boyfriend she just can’t quit, the Times has reviewed Roberta’s not once, not twice, but three times as of Sifton’s latest write-up — complete with hearts scribbled in candy-apple-red lipstick — to run tomorrow. This is the third review in three years, and yes, the Times is still “dumb-founded” and “breathless,” and this time around declares Roberta’s “one of the more extraordinary restaurants in the United States.” Sifton is careful to mention the excellent service, despite having “no cloth napkins or tablecloths … no comfortable seats. Christmas lights provide mood lighting, and urban detritus and flea-market finds the art on the walls.” And a dry-aged duck even gave him “a dopamine rush.” (Ah, Dr. Drew?!) “Golly!” and “banana hammock” are also enjoyably woven into the text. Sounds like love and lust in Bushwick … or maybe that’s just the title for their fourth review, like, next week. [NYT]
