M. Wells Winds Down With Caviar, Magic, and a Contemplative Critic

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"A study in single-course, over-the-top minimalism." Photo: Courtesy of Petrossian

"And then it was late, and Mr. Dufour was stained with red wine poured into and around his mouth from one of those Basque wine bongs called porrons, and he was wearing a woman’s shawl to cover his ruined T-shirt and customers were leaving big knots of bills on the tables and kissing Ms. Obraitis good night and wishing the couple well in their future endeavors." — Sam Sifton on the well-fed decrescendo of M. Wells, complete with endless oysters, an undercurrent of anger, and affection all around. [Diner's Journal/NYT]