The Other Critics

Willie Brown Doesn’t Recognize Valencia Street, Calls Locanda and Atelier Crenn ‘Winners’

What with all the traveling and TV-show-pitching he’s been doing, the Chron’s armchair critic Willie Brown — the only of their critics not allowed to dole out stars, mind you — is only now getting to weigh in on Locanda and Atelier Crenn. First off, Willie doesn’t leave downtown very much, and Valencia Street’s like a whole new world to him. “The environment is almost like you’re on Steuart Street or in the old North Beach area—that’s the flavor of the place.” Thanks for that explanation, Willie! He calls the food at Locanda “good,” even though there was “some fish I didn’t recognize or eat” on the menu. But being a man of pomp and theater, he’s an even bigger fan of Crenn, calling all the dishes “excellent” even though “none of these dishes were recognizable” as beef, foie gras, or whathaveyou. He says the restaurant “is at the same level as Danko or Quince,” and that should please Dominique Crenn, as it’s the biggest rave she’s received to date. [Scoop]

Willie Brown Doesn’t Recognize Valencia Street, Calls Locanda and Atelier