The Other Critics

Salted Bits of Bacon Puts Frankford Hall’s Spatzle ‘Over the Top’; A ‘Swamp of Cheesy Sauce’ Bogs Down a.kitchen’s Gnocchi

• Despite the “most tasty” dinner at Stephen Starr’s Frankford Hall, Phyllis Stein-Novack notes, “it was difficult to cut chicken schnitzel on paper using plastic knives and forks.” “Crisp, golden brown” potato pancakes “were dreamy,” and the “crisp, slightly salted bits of bacon” in the spatzle’s “creamy little pillows of dough” put the dish “over the top.” [South Philly Review]

• Two Eat Philly check out Little Pete’s on 17th Street and marvel over its authenticity and ability to transport “you to any other diner in small-town (or big-city) America.” As far as the food goes, a simple feta and tomato omelet, which came to the table without the tomato, was nonetheless “perfectly cooked” and “delicious.” The “heavy on the breadcrumb/cornmeal filling” scrapple tasted like “a soft, crumbly brick of sausage, with a crispy fried exterior.” [Two Eat Philly]

• The “swamp of cheesy sauce and variety of veggies” that accompany the “soft and pillowy” “Bryan-gnocchi” at a.kitchen “was a little weird” for Penn Apetit. The “insipid” burrata “wasn’t particularly cheesy.” [Penn Appetit]

Salted Bits of Bacon Puts Frankford Hall’s Spatzle ‘Over the