The Times’ Jeannette Catsoulis drops her review of El Bulli: Cooking in Progress, and she has some less-than-kind words: “devoid of emotion, context or narrative, the baffling avant-garde techniques and extreme politesse of the lab become oppressively dull.” Eeesh. She wants to know, Where’s the drama? Where’s the food porn?! The latter is all at the end, it seems, when the audience is finally “reassured that the intriguingly named ‘vanishing ravioli’ is probably not as dry as the film that celebrates it.” Maybe it’s not quite the send-off that the restaurant, which you’ve no doubt heard will close forever this Saturday, would have hoped for. We say it still sounds worlds better than The Smurfs, though. [NYT]
No bueno. Photo: El Bulli: Cooking in Progress.