Adam Platt on Boulud Sud; More on the Closing of H&H

Boulud Sud.
Boulud Sud. Photo: Danny Kim

In this week’s New York, Adam Platt considers Daniel Boulud’s newest, Boulud Sud, the chef’s foray into “’Mediterranean’ cuisine.” “The question my guests and I kept asking … is, What in the world has taken him so long?” our critic muses. “Boulud’s knack for breathing new life into aged culinary formulas” is on full display with the menu, and dishes like “perfectly crisped” artichoke hearts, proper Andalusian gazpacho, and “satisfying experiments” with seafood and lamb, along with a cheery dining room, earn the spot three stars.

Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld bring first word of some brand-new and upcoming eateries, including E & E Grill House, which aims to democratize the steakhouse; Betto, Jason Denton’s latest (panini-less) effort in Williamsburg; and PizzArte, where rustic Italian cooking is surrounded by great works of visual art. The Robs also proffer a suggestion for easy summer drinking: Vera Vinho Verde 2010, which also has an easy price tag of $10 to $11. And in case you’re wondering what’s “In Season,” this week it’s “frilly” panisse lettuce, with “tender but sturdy-enough leaves and a bittersweet flavor that fairly cries out for a zingy dressing,” like this pistachio vinaigrette from ABC Kitchen’s Dan Kluger. And in case you’re still reeling from the shuttering of H&H;, here’s a little more about the history of those beloved bagels.