If you’ve ever wondered what miso soup would taste like with a Latin twist, you can now order it at DohYo, one of the spaces opening tonight at the 18,000-square-foot Four nightlife complex in the sparkly new Yotel. The restaurant is built to resemble a sumo dojo, where guests step up onto a platform and quickly sweep legs into a trench under a low communal table to look as if they were sitting on the floor (for those with bad knees, booths and tables are also available). After the Richard Sandoval–helmed kitchen closes, the tables sink into the floor to afford more space for bar-goers or performers or sumo wrestlers, because, like, why not? Dishes like the Wagyu beef brisket arepa with achiote, hoisin, avocado, and crema fresca keep true to theme.
Then there’s Terrace, the largest outdoor hotel space in the city and a new place to dine alfresco, with an edited selection of about ten small plates with items like shrimp shumai and falafel lettuce wraps (reportedly a larger menu is on its way). But what if you’re looking for more of an “informal meeting space” with, say, glass cabins fitted with flat-screen TVs and video-game consoles? Simply walk across the vast fourth floor to Club Lounge and you can get all that, plus a menu of small plates, noodles and rice, and a selection of bento boxes. We’re not sure why the menus are different, but whatever. Basically, Four has a lot going on. If you’re confused about how to navigate the space (is it one space or three or Four?), and a bit dazzled by all the colors, don’t worry — our head is still reeling a little bit too.