Generally What Happens When switches its “movements” at the beginning of each month, but given the restaurant’s ongoing liquor-license issues, it’s rolled out the latest one mid-month, and the theme is fitting: Prohibition. Just like during the roaring twenties, the lack of a legal way to serve alcohol is not going to stop anyone from indulging in a nip. In between courses (fruit cocktail, veal scallopini — see the full spread here), diners not satisfied with the “extensive selection of mocktails” can pop over to Mexican Radio, where two era-appropriate quaffs are on special. And at least one aspect of this setup is truly speakeasylike: You’ll need a password from your server to get the pours.
Extra, extra! Photo: Courtesy What Happens When