First Look at Betto, Jason Denton’s Panini-less Brooklyn Canteen

Photo: Michael Allin

One thing that pulsating hub of trendy grub known as Williamsburg has had to do without is a Jason Denton restaurant. That changes next week, when Denton, the pied piper of panini, unveils Betto, his 60-seat spot located in the old Ciao Bella space. Surprisingly, the once almighty panino — the sandwich that made Denton’s name — has been left behind in Manhattan. Instead, Corsino chef Shaunna Sargent will focus on a rotating roster of bruschette, made on housemade filone that’s traditionally grilled (as opposed to panini-pressed), oiled, and rubbed with garlic. There are also some snacky morsels like grilled plums with burrata, and littlenecks with sausage and spring onions that Denton is loath to call small plates, but we will. As if to atone, the menu will offer large-format fauna like whole-roasted baby lambs, ducks, pheasants, and whole fish all priced by the pound. The wine list goes off in a slightly different direction, too: In addition to Italian varieties, there are small-producer French and American labels — a first for Denton — not to mention cocktails.

138 N. 8th St., nr. Berry St., Williamsburg; 718-384-1904