The Other Critics

Bauer Doesn’t Much Care for Hecho; Unterman Applauds the ‘Revitalized’ Rose Pistola

Mr. Bauer complained recently, without naming names, about how mediocre much of his dining around town has been — compared with the glorious, opening-filled months of last summer — and it looks like one of the culprits was Hecho, the new tequila-and-sushi bar in the old Midi spot downtown. “Joseph Manzare, who made a name at Globe, Zuppa and Tres Agaves, but failed at Joey and Eddie’s and Pescheria, seems to be combining what he learned opening a Mexican place with his love of Japanese culture,” writes Bauer, adding, “If the food was on the mark, the concept might work. But after three visits, I found the experience uneven and a little perplexing.” He says that “some skewers were excellent,” the grilled whole fish is “done well,” and that Himalayan hamachi with kumquat and candied jalapeno is pretty good too. But he says, “I also wouldn’t go to Hecho for sushi,” and adds that most of the maki rolls were flavorless. Also, the service was inconsistent, and the tequila cocktails were “too sweet and distracted from the food.” All told: two stars, which comes off sounding generous. [Chron]

Patty U., meanwhile, headed into the recently revamped Rose Pistola, and has many compliments for the place. She says that “exciting pizza still comes out of the oven” there, and says she always orders the spaghetti with seafood sauce with the “excitingly al dente pasta.” (Excitingly? Really, Patty?) Also, she fell hard for the whole grilled branzino, even though it was probably farmed, saying it “looked as if it had jumped from the sea onto the fire” and that she was seduced by “its moist flesh, aromatic with fresh herbs.” Also, manager/sommelier Lisa Robins curated and wine tour of Italy for Patty and a friend one night, that left her delighted but hungover the next day. [Examiner]

Bauer Doesn’t Much Care for Hecho; Unterman Applauds the