The Other Critics

Tamarkin Gives GT Fish & Oyster Four Stars

It's a good day for GT Fish & Oyster.
It’s a good day for GT Fish & Oyster. Photo: Huge Galdones/Galdones Photography

David Tamarkin begins his review of GT Fish & Oyster in attack mode, taking down the lobster roll and the stuffed squid dish in the first two sentences. But that’s where the criticism basically ends, as he gives chef Giuseppe Tentori’s new seafood restaurant four stars out of five, writing that “everything else at GT Fish I loved.” In fact, he believes that it is “in every respect more comfortable, affordable and delicious than Boka.”

He “loved” the cocktails and the room, but mostly he loved the food. He thought that the cold side of the menu showcased “a chef who is consumed with details.” The sunfish ceviche “sparkles with acidity but is never drowned by it,” while tuna poke “pairs the rich, toothsome fish with not only sweet mango but palate-restoring cucumber.”

Though the restaurant seems American, he is relieved that Tentori hasn’t “succumbed completely.” That means that the chef’s pastas are still on the menu, and “his squid-ink gnocchi is revelatory.” Also, the pork with “Mexican accents,” is “perhaps the best hot dish I ate here.”

The main realization of the review is that Tentori seems to be setting himself up for a breakthrough. Tamarkin admits that the chef is not as well known in Chicago, and decides it’s probably due to “not having a television presence.” Then he adds: “Whatever the reason, it can’t be his cooking, because the food coming out of GT would make any cook a star.”

Restaurant review: GT Fish & Oyster [TOC]

Tamarkin Gives GT Fish & Oyster Four Stars