Cheshes Enjoys Lyon Bouchon Moderne; Sietsema Praises Dean Street’s Comfort Food

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Lyon makes "perfect elbow-on-the-bar bites. Even the most adventurous bouchon dishes have been reborn new and accessible." says Jay Cheshes. "This is the place to take the plunge on braised tripe—delicious, tender and surprisingly light—tossed with piquant merguez nuggets and topped with crisp garlic bread crumbs." [TONY]

Dean Street offers "seven apps, seven mains, and a scattering of sides and salads. The roast chicken with mashed spuds and mushroom gravy ... really hits the spot," says Robert Sietsema. "The gargantuan boneless short rib on polenta is also superb comfort food." [VV]

Bi Lokma is a "weekday lunch hub or a cozy corner for chow," says Lauren Shockey. "Appetizers lure the vegetarians, but herbivores are (mostly) out of luck come entrée time. Lamb reigns proud and loud, featured in most of the 13 options." [VV]

At the Dutch, "I am quickly swooning over a tiny oyster sandwich, already a Twitter star in the first week since opening," writes Gael Greene. "Most portions here are old-fashioned American: generous, mostly big enough to share. I’m surprised that I’m not knocked out by the legendary fried chicken special of Monday nights at Locanda [Verde]." [Insatiable Critic]

At the John Dory Oyster Bar, "gone are the entrées and the overambition; new are a blasé attitude and the dispassionate embrace," says Shauna Lyon. "The crudi are imaginative and impeccable, like the hefty wedges of buttery pink snapper dressed in blood-orange juice, with a chile-pepper kick." [NYer]

Tenpenny's "burger is a gift to local bankers; a viable substitute to the lunchtime lines of Shake Shack. Just skip his pork rack. He overcooks it just like he used to at the now-closed Faustina," says Ryan Sutton. At Desmond's, "order the $55 Dover sole, which dots every other table." [Bloomberg]