Last time we checked in with Ben Sargent, a.k.a. Dr. Claw, his underground lobster lair in Greenpoint was being shut down by the Health Department. So did he go further underground? Actually, he tells us, it wasnt an option: I made the mistake of letting it be known who I was, so it was really hard at that point. Getting into the legitimate restaurant business didnt seem like an option either, even if he once operated Hurricane Hopeful (
where Surf Bar now is): I had so much fun doing it the way I was doing it, he says. I felt like if I did a legit version all my customers were going to be sort of disappointed. So he went out looking for a new gig, and boy did he find one. His show, Hook, Line & Dinner, premieres on the Cooking Channel on June 7 at 10:30 p.m. An offshoot of his web series Seafood Secrets of the Brooklyn Chowder Surfer, the show finds him coming aboard with fishermen all over the country and then visiting restaurants to see how their catch is prepared. Watch a clip, and hear more from Sargent below.
Whats the most surprising thing you discovered about fishing and seafood over the course of the show?
I had been cooking very simple New England stuff the whole time I was in New York, so it was great to get out there and see the spectrum from the fry house to full-on serious seafood operations. I think a lot of people see fish and seafood as an industry in turmoil, and I dont see it that way; there are certain challenges and weve definitely overfished some places, but there are enough sustainable methods of fishing that there is hope.
What are some of those sustainable methods?
I think the right way is for the fishermen to be getting a higher price for what hes going after, which means he can catch less fish, which means he can use a method thats more responsible and kills less bycatch line fishing being the best thing. If a guy can go out and use his same trawler but set it up now for going with a line or use that same trawler and go with a gill net, now hes not scraping the bottom of the ocean and completely ruining the habitat for the next twenty years. Fishermen are getting really well educated on this stuff, because their livelihood isnt going to be there unless they get really smart about it. And the chefs have to get smarter because now the consumers are getting smarter if you consider yourself a rock star celebrity chef and you put bluefin tuna on your menu and the wrong person walks into your restaurant, youre getting caught with your pants down.
What fish do you now know to avoid?
I stay away from swordfish and a lot of the faster swimming fish, and almost all of the tuna. Bluefin is the one everyone talks about, but theres not enough tuna left in this world. Chilean sea bass is coming back, but what used to be a yearlong season is now a month or two months. It tells you something that there used to be enough to fish all year and now theres only enough to fish on a month. I think we can err on the side of being overly cautious.
Do fishermen feel the same way?
Theyre fishing with better technology, so reports come in and the fishermen say, Were catching way more than in years past. Well, thats because youre going out with a boat that has ten times the capabilities, so of course youre going to get more fish. But that doesnt tell you how many fish are left in the ocean. Fishermen dont always like that I play hardball when it comes to this stuff, but I think fishermen are coming to the other side youll see it in places like Maine where the lobster fisheries are self-regulated. These guys know that [if they overfish] they wont have jobs and Maine wont have a tourism industry. In the case of the stone crab, scientists and fishermen figured out they dont have to kill crabs they can take the claw and release it back into the water for it to generate an even bigger claw. It probably doesnt feel so good when you wrench its claw off, but its an escape mechanism, so I dont even think it hurts the crab.
Is there a dont eat fish on Mondaystype rule that you picked up along the way?
My personal rule is: If you didnt see it swimming before it lands on your plate, then you dont want to eat it. What I really learned was that we in New England live in a pretty spectacular seafood region as far as diversity goes and as far as caring for the oceans. I have a sense of pride about New England that I didnt even know I had.
What about New York City? What do you catch around here?
I fish out in the Rockaways, in the Hudson, and the East River is my stomping ground. I love surfcasting and going off the docks. Im not a bait guy I use plugs and lures. Its a little harder, but theres so much action involved. I get bluefish and striped bass.
How do you like to cook them?
One of my favorite ways to do a bluefish is tin foil with a little bit of mayo on top. Ill throw some onions in there and maybe a little paprika on top, and Ill put it on the grill. Bluefish is a little fishy for some people, and I feel like the mayonnaise does good things for it. The striped bass is a little more delicate, so you can do really nice filets with that. Ive also smoked bluefish thats where that fishiness actually imparts a lot of flavor and moisture.
Your travels took you from the Bayou to the Everglades to San Francisco, South Carolina, and Santa Barbara. So whats your favorite region for seafood?
The northwest is just spectacular. There are certain things youll get there that you wont find anywhere else Dungeness crabs and all kinds of crabs, really. The West Coast is so wild. The flavors that come out of there are sort of new and inspiring. And the cooking, too. In Oregon, we went into Eric Bechards place, Thistle. Its off the beaten path pretty far out of Portland, but he had enough of a following that people could find him somehow. In Oregon, the whole farm-to-table thing is just as important as the whole sea-to-table thing, and he was using truffles he had gotten from this guy who had a special dog. The guy walked into the restaurant saying, I picked this today, and Eric whips out $100 and thats the truffle that ended up on our fish.
They just launched a food truck, as did Lukes Lobster. Which roll do you like better?
Theres no comparison. At Lukes, the lobster is being shipped in kind of cold. Its served too cold, in my opinion. Temperature is a really important thing. When you serve lobster out of a really cold refrigerator, not a lot of flavor comes through. They do some things at Red Hook that I totally concur with a little drizzle of butter, and the butter has a little garlic in it. I think they throw some chives on top.
Did you feel the need to live up to the macho standard of other dude travel shows (Man v. Food, etc.)?
My show is exactly the opposite. The production company kept asking the network, Are you okay showing Ben in this light hes kind of being made fun of here. Is it okay that he doesnt know how to do this or is making a fool out of himself or did that wrong? Its hard on a boat no matter how experienced you are youre going to make a lot of mistakes. And there were a couple of times when I just couldnt hold it down.
Really? You got seasick?
Everyone says eat something before you get on one of these boats and that just makes matters worse, so there were times when I was yacking off the side of the boat for three hours, embarrassing myself to no end. People were saying to take Dramamine, but then youre kind of out of it. I wanted to get my sea legs, which never happened. Once you get sick its in your head, and when you step on the next boat youre like, Oh God, here we go again.